Look2 toile

The original sketch for look 2 looks like this. After I talk to Joe, we decide to make the top as two layer: one sheer organza shirt with a sequins tank top inside.

The best way to draft the waterfall pleats is to use tracing paper fold the shape first. I decide to connect the front and back piece so it won’t have a seam between. The main issue is that the shirt is a bit too short so that I add 10cm for the length.

This is how it looks like after I attached the collar. When I draft the collar block I was worried about if it is too big and wide. However, it actually comes out really edgy looking. But I still need to trim the shirt collar’s edge because the fabric is not easy to turn which give the neckline lots of tension.Another problem is that it looks a bit weird if we only use another fabric as the yoke panel. However an organza stand cannot hold the TPU layer. At last we come out a another solution is that making a detachable collar with silk wool stand.

The first toile I made did not fit well on the mannequin. The shaping for front neckline is too narrow and wide and the back is too loose. I decide to reshape my pattern piece and add a downward invisible zipper at side for opening.

After I reshape the neckline and bring in the corner closer, the shape looks much better and it fit the body shape nicer.

For the pants drafting, first I separate the front and back piece.

After that I add the stylish panel inside and then shape the pocket, making it wider, like the sketch.

After I sew the pocket I realize that the front and back pocket is connected together. Therefore, if I shape it round like normal pocket bag, the hand will not be comfortable. Therefore, I change the other side to a more square shape.

Besides this, it's easier to clean finish the pocket edge first before attaching to the pants.

As for the openning, I choose to do an invisible zipper at center back.

The shape for the pants comes out quite satisfied. Although the waist band looks a bit wide now however after I add the belt, the proportion should look fine. I really like the pocket design which gives the design more shape and also making the pocket bag’s space bigger so it’s more functional.