Look3 actual

I started to cut the inner dress first which is the sequin fabric. It is very hard to cut this fabric. I have to lift the sequins up when I cut and after that trim out 1cm seam allowance for sewing. As for the silk wool material, making sure the pattern piece go with the same direction is very important because it might shine different in direction. Place the big piece first then squeeze in small pieces.

For inner dress, I join them using French seam. After I sew the front and back piece together I sew back some of the sequins to fill up the gap. To prepare the outer cape, roll hem them first before the edges start to fray. After that join the side seam and sew the pleats. Make sure don’t press the pleats down.

This is how it looks like after I join the front and back outer layer.

My original plan is to sew an invisible at side that opens up two layers together. However it will makes the outer layer’s side very flat. At last we decide to put the zipper only on the inner dress and ask someone to try if the people can go inside and it actually works.

Before attaching the sleeve I have to finished the under armhole first using French bias finishing. First cut out a 4cm organza band on bias, after that iron it into half with. Sew the double layer side to the edge, fold it back and slip stitch the fold to self-fabric.

As for the sleeve design, my original design is to drape an organza piece on top to make it more volume. However, the outcome did not look nice and it has a very princess dress sleeve looking which is not what I want.

At last, I decide to change the design and bead the whole sleeve.I’m taking out the sequins from the netting fabric and bead them back on the sleeve. To make it more interesting, I try to do a ombre effect which is more layers of sequins at bottom.

This is how it looks like after I attach it to the back yoke and fold up all the sequins. The outcome creates a very striking and dramatic look which is exactly what I want. The sequins was fold in different ways so it has a very interesting texture and shines differently.

The last step is to attach the sleeve to the dress. The sleeve was cut double layer so I sandwich one side first and the other side can be slip stitch inside.

For the closure, I’m hand stitch a hook and eye at back yoke.

This is the final look. It also come with a belt, without the belt the whole shape is more edgy and fashion forward. On the other hand, a belt will make this look more elegant and feminine.